I like boiled linseed oil. It is a natural wood treatment, although toxic if ingested. It is a drying oil, unlike raw linseed oil that remains wet. It gives a warm glow to wood. Mixing it with turpentine allows the linseed oil to penetrate deeper. I mixed equal parts of linseed oil and turpentine, which is also a naturally derived product. And I added a very small amount of pine tar to highlight the grain in the plywood. This is before (right) and after (left) treatment…
I used utility grade 3/8″ sheeting in the storage area on two walls. It is resilient and can take punishment, not that we are going to do subject them to it. It is also less expensive. These were applied to the inside walls of the storage area as we are not concerned with rodents trying to get through them. This is what the walls now look like.
I was able to add one of the two strips of metal trim. I cut an eight inch strip out of an eight foot sheet, bent it 90 degrees down its centre, and cut it every four inches so that it would conform to the curved outer wall of the shed. I screwed it into the metal and nailed it to the plywood with 1 1/2″ roofing nails. It fits well and looks good. Tomorrow I will cut and install the other one at the opposite end of the wall and then start on the wood trim.
Before the interior of the weaving shop which houses the Draper loom can be started an attached 15′ x 20′ storage area needs to be completed. Two walls are now finished and a third insulated today. The ceiling needs to be put up after the metal is put on the long outside wall (right) and the centre wall is done. After this then storage units need to be built, items put in, and then the work on the area of the Draper and work tables can begin. Work on this goes along as the weather is rainy outside…usually at least a few hours early every morning.
With the exception of the doors, the ceiling and wall sheathing are now complete. We finished placing the battens in place today. They still need to be fully nailed to the boards beneath. We used 1″ lumber and 1×2 battens. It is in the back of the quonset which is still used for farm implements and will receive rough treatment. Better boards than metal or sheathing or gyprock.
…cleaning the floor/ceiling of our weaving workshop, then applying roofing underlayment, and finally laying down rolled roofing (in white, which is all they had, but was great because it gives a bit more light up above)…I now need to seal the cracks with some heated asphalt sealant…tomorrow?…and then pour on the sand so that these sealed cracks will not stick to the weaving items and other things we will store up there…
Weaving involves integrating many aspects of care: yourself, others, tools, and ideas. Today I planed rough lumber for the weaving shop. Siding. There’s more to just throwing a switch on any tool…weaving loom or other. Every day the blades need to be correctly sharpened. We do that ourselves here. And you have to know your machine well enough as well as the composition of the wood to plane well…
A week ago I brought power into the shop as well. During down time in the field now we are again up and running ahead on finishing this project. Installing outlets and wiring is next.
It took all afternoon to excavate and level the rest of the 20′ x 40′ area with the loader on our Kubota B3030. This will be the shed for our power loom. This is a 6′ high, 8′ deep, and 20′ long pile of soil that came from that excavation. The pad is dug deep enough to fill with gravel that will compact to 6″, with a 6″ concrete pad, and 9″ of curtain wall along its edges.
Yesterday I paid for re-bar for a 20′ x 40′ concrete pad which will be the shop that houses our Draper Model D power loom. Last night a friend delivered it.
Today we finished cleaning out this area. Then I excavated down to the bottom of the footing. The concrete floor will sit 5″ below the top of the shed’s footing. I drilled a series of holes, 18″ apart along the footing, 10″ down. Although the new pad will be 5″ thick, I set the re-bar half way down the depth of this pad’s footing which will be 10″. Setting re-bar too high allows for the concrete to break out along the top should the pad decides to shift.
A hammer drill is used to drill the anchor holes for the re-bar. Other than having to push on the drill in order to activate its hammering, it pretty much works all on its own.
The next step is to start excavating the dirt in the shed in preparation for sand and gravel to bring the sub floor back up the correct grade.